When you look at products, it's not long before your attention is drawn to the claims on the packaging. 'Anti-aging' is the most prominent example. Manufacturers have to find out what customers need so they can sell their products to men and women. When it comes to making promises, a distinction should made between the immediate effects and long-term benefits.

How does a manufacturer actually sell a cosmetic product to a man or woman? The expectations placed on a product vary greatly from individual to individual. One person may need a shower gel that "just" cleans. But there's more to it than that: 

• Does it smell good? 
• Does it feel good? Do I like the texture? Is it greasy or not too much? 
• Does it look good? Would I prefer to have a gel or a cream? 

Consumers are also focusing increasingly on ecology and sustainability. Where do the raw materials come from? How are they manufactured? Are there labels from organizations on the packaging that promise the products are natural or environmentally friendly?

All of these are consumer expectations that cosmetics manufacturers are trying to meet. This calls for a number of substances to be mixed together while cold or warm – just like when cooking. An example here is a substances that helps to mix water with oil or gives the formula certain physical properties that you can see, feel or smell. 

Deciding on a purchase based on the effects promised 

Of course, you may also have higher expectations of your cosmetic product. You may have very dry, blemished or irritated skin. Perhaps the tiny lines that are gradually appearing at the corners of your eyes are bothering you. Or maybe you think the skin on your cheeks looks as though it is sagging. In that case, you'll probably be on the lookout for a cosmetic product that promises relief or improvement. This promise of an “effect” is often highlighted on the packaging, because it has a particularly strong influence on the consumer's decision about whether to buy the product. These kinds of promises are also referred to as “claims”.

When a new cosmetic product is launched on the market, it is time to bang the drum, and loudly. The product can do this, that and the other. Customers and end users have to be able to rely on the statements made about the products.

Not all samples are equal 

The advertising statements must be supported by “sufficient and verifiable evidence”, with this evidence taking into account the state of the art. In addition to this central requirement for documentability, everything has to meet a number of somewhat self-evident requirements, such as “truthfulness”, “honesty” and “integrity”.  Social, cultural and linguistic factors in the target market also play a role in the acceptability of an advertising claim. Consumer safety is the top priority. 

Researchers and developers need to back up the advertising claims with validated results and tests. At this point, we need to take a brief detour into the accuracy of science. Studies that seek to support a claim can never be representative of anything more than a sample. However, the significance of a sample can vary greatly. If a test performed on two people leads to wrinkles disappearing, but which is otherwise quite unlikely to yield this result, then this does not mean it will be effective for the third person. They are their own person and therefore may have a less strong response to the product. 

This is where the accuracy of science comes into play. Choosing a sufficiently large sample increases the likelihood that the result can be transferred to other people. In other words, the probability increases. To be able to assess probabilities seriously, there is one area of mathematics that is essential here: statistics. The use of statistics makes a study more meaningful, sufficiently proven and verifiable – just as the claims regulation necessitates.

Does that mean, then, that it isn't possible to have immediate effects on the skin? Is it all in the mind or a self-fulfilling prophecy? In actual fact, immediate effects are possible – they just won't last. Very often, these are purely physical or mechanical mechanisms. A protein that shrinks on the surface of the skin while drying off can potentially “pull” the skin and lift it. Small wrinkles can be filled with suitable substances, while color changes can be achieved with cosmetics containing pigments. It is easy to quickly moisturize the skin and help make it smoother. The disappointing reality, though is that at some point, the substances are either washed away or degrade. As a result, the effect is transient and only lasts a little while. 

This is usually the case with cosmetic care products. While they are often by no means ineffective, to achieve lasting and perhaps even visible effects, you need a combination of patience and regular application. Oh, and it is also a good idea to keep following that fitness regime you started on New Year’s Day, as this also supports skin health. This allows you to strengthen the skin’s own defenses against external influences, break down old, non-functional substances, and promote the formation of new ones.

Not necessary, but nice to have 

Now for the question: What constitutes an active ingredient in cosmetic products? An active ingredient is usually required to support advertising claims that go beyond merely describing the cosmetic formulation. Does it reduce sebum production and improve oily skin? Does it soothe sensitive skin and help to make the skin firmer or more elastic? Does it help to smooth out unwanted wrinkles? The focus is often on relieving skin problems. That said, the biggest consumer market for decades now has been about counteracting the visible signs of aging, specifically in conjunction with the skin. 

When it comes to appearance, stability or the feel of the product on the skin, the role played by an active ingredient is negligible. These properties are achieved by other ingredients in the cosmetic formula, such as: emulsifiers, gelling agents, oils, cleansing substances or fragrances. Does it feel light, greasy or rich? Is it transparent, cloudy or pearlescent? Does it spread well, is it sticky and does it smell appealing? These are all questions that have very little to do with the active agents contained within.