The world of Actives
What actually are cosmetics?
Since the dawn of cosmetics, one thing has been clear: water alone is not enough to care for the skin and hair. The search for and research into suitable additives and ingredients has a long history – today, it is a race to win the favor of end consumers.
Cosmetics are often confused with make-up. From a purely historical point of view, this confusion is somewhat justified. Early cultures used dyes – often red or white – to emphasize a special status within society. In India, for example, a white spot above the root of the nose indicated that one belonged to the Brahman caste. We also know that the women of some prehistoric tribes painted their faces red. Colors were usually only available to prominent personalities, which emphasized their high standing.
The ancient Egyptian period is considered to be the birth of cosmetics. Although Stone Age findings suggest that cavemen did use oils, ointments and dyes to care for their skin, it was the Egyptians who wrote down and passed on their knowledge of personal care and how to make decorative changes to their appearance.
In ancient Egypt, lips and cheeks were painted in different shades of red, the lower eyelids were accentuated with green malachite, and indigo and henna were used to dye the hair. This was how women and men changed their natural appearance.
Healthy mind – healthy body
Important to note is that no distinction was made back then between cosmetics and medicine. In some instances, highly toxic substances were used, presumably out of ignorance of the risks they posed. While this may be true, scientists have actually discovered in their research that various substances, some of which contained lead, were intentionally used because of their 'medicinal properties'. Not only were they meant to control pests, but they were purported to stimulate the immune system. Unfortunately, while these wearers may have benefited in terms of appearance and smell, the trade off was steep: it often took years off their lives.
The knowledge of the Egyptians was adopted and further developed by the ancient Greeks. The Greeks liked to use olive oil and honey-based cosmetics. At this time, a healthy mind was believed to be the result of a healthy body. Here, too, personal care played a major role. In addition to the use of ointments and oils, exercise and healthy eating were held in high regard.
Religious reasons also had a major hand in how people lived: the belief was that individuals should focus on the divine rather than themselves. In the early Christian period of the Roman Empire, women who painted their faces were condemned as pagan harlots.
Fragrances were added to the dyes. Since there were no cleaning products or deodorants in ancient times, people were rather pungent. Various resins and aromatic substances were used to try to mask questionable body odors.
A long shopping list: these items used to be used for hair care
Soapwort, egg whites, cider vinegar, flavored vinegars, camomile tea, oak apples, acorns, oak bark, wine, iron, quicklime, oils – e.g. almond oil + castor oil, vine root ashes, baking soda, tanning acids, alum, eggs, mercury, herbs, lizard fat, olives, lemons, beeswax, burnt lime, orpiment, curd soap, rosemary water, nettles, mint, incense, linseed, saffron, caraway, arsenic, henna, goat’s milk, elm bark, willow root, reed roots, stinging nettles, mint, thyme, onion peel, cognac, egg yolks, beer
Safety is the top priority
Let’s take a look at one of the major differences between today’s cosmetic products and those of ancient times: SAFETY is the most important legal requirement for cosmetic products in the EU and many other developed countries today. It is the absolute top priority. A product that is harmful to health in any form when used properly may not be released on the market. As a result, manufacturers are obliged to carry out a comprehensive safety assessment.
Over the centuries, knowledge grew and pharmaceuticals, medicine and cosmetics became separate disciplines. In the European Union, pharmaceutical, medical and cosmetic products continue to be separate and are subject to different legal requirements. Let's take Germany as an example: pharmaceutical products there are subject to the Medicinal Products Act and medical products are governed by the Medical Devices Act. Cosmetic products? You probably think they are subject to the Cosmetic Products Act. But there's no such thing. In fact, cosmetic products are subject to the Foods, Consumer Goods and Feedstuffs Code.
The word “cosmetics” derives from the ancient Greek “kosmetikós”. “Kosméo” roughly means “to arrange”, “to decorate” or “to adorn”. The legal definition of a cosmetic today is clearly defined in the EU Regulation (EC) no. 1223/2009 on cosmetics:
Definition of “cosmetic products”
- Substances or mixtures intended to come into external contact with parts of the human body (skin, hair and scalp, nails, lips and external intimate areas) or with the teeth and mucous membranes inside the mouth, for the sole or primary purpose of cleaning, perfuming, altering their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or influencing the body's odors
This definition is supplemented by extensive legal regulations that describe what is not permitted. And that is quite a lot. Annex II of the EU Regulation on cosmetics lists which substances are prohibited in cosmetic products. The figure currently stands at 1,729 substances! Another annex (III) lists substances that may only be used in certain specific percentages in different cosmetic products. This list currently has 372 substances.
There is also a list of permitted dyes, preservatives and UV filters for sun care products. If you would like to know more, the legal framework conditions for cosmetics is available here (in German) on the page of the German Federal Office for Consumer Protection and Food Safety.
In addition to the tasks of a cosmetic agent, which are specified in the definition as above, there is a comprehensive requirements profile for cosmetic agents with regard to customer wishes and needs. “Just” cleaning is no longer enough.
Other requirements include:
- Delivering on the performance profile: Doing what the product promises
- Good skin compatibility
- Appealing texture and appearance
- Optimal sensory properties
- Stable formulation
- Pleasant scent
- Environmentally neutral
To meet all these points and satisfy the needs of consumers, this calls for the right ingredients and, in particular, the right active ingredients that can work together and in a formulation. When everything is satisfactory, cosmetics can help people, are fun to use, and improve the quality of life.
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