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The world of Actives

Ageing is part of life

Everyone wants to grow old, but no one wants to be old. Sounds absurd, right? Aging has negative connotations. But this doesn't have to be the case. Here's a first step toward acceptance: less anti-aging, more aging well.

Aging is part of life and the most natural thing in the world. Age and aging are visible primarily on the skin, and aging is associated with degradation and decay. In 1746, the Italian artist Pompeo Batoni created the oil painting “Time Orders Old Age to Destroy Beauty”. Time is represented as an old man with a scythe, age is an old woman, and beauty is a young woman. Beauty ends when it is sacrificed to time. 

Less anti-aging, more aging well 

The negative attitude towards aging is changing in many societies. This trend is also reflected in the advertising used for relevant cosmetic products. In times gone by, anti-aging was a panic-induced response with very negative connotations. "Let’s stop aging", was the attitude. According to current knowledge, we sadly cannot stop aging. Even so, we are now tackling it with a more positive outlook. Today, we use the terms "better aging" and "aging well".

The causes of aging are diverse and complex. For a long time, it was believed that our genes alone dictated the process. But there is more to it than that. Other influences also play a role, whether endogenous or exogenous in nature. Endogenous (internal) influences include our hormones and the countless microorganisms that are permanent guests in our bodies. Exogenous (external) influences include environmental influences such as climate, air pollution, environmental toxins, sunlight and extreme temperatures. Whether we smoke or lead an unhealthy lifestyle also plays a role. These internal and external environmental influences, which are not genetically related, are also called exposomes.

Active ingredients and hero ingredients 

In recent years, the term “hero ingredients” has become increasingly popular. Are they active ingredients that are simply better for us? First and foremost, hero ingredients are substances that consumers have bee familiar with for a long time, meaning confidence in them is sky high. These substances do not necessarily have anything to do with skin or hair care. They are often also known for their medical properties or as food supplements. What they all have in common, however, is that they are said to have positive effects on health. 

Such hero ingredients include, for example, retinol, ascorbic acid, niacinamide, tocopherol, biotin and panthenol. Heard of them? Perhaps only one or two. We'd wager that you're more familiar with Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Vitamin B3, Vitamin E, Vitamin B7 and Provitamin B5 – the same substances, but these are their trivial names. Whatever we call them, vitamins have cultivated quite a strong reputation. However, it is not possible to claim that they have positive effects after applying them to the hair or skin. What's more, vitamins are by no means a uniform class of substances where you could say, "Okay, that’s a vitamin, so it has to be good." Vitamins are different chemical compounds. What they have in common is that the body cannot produce them itself, but must absorb them. In addition, certain components of the skin and hair are hero ingredients, including keratin, collagen and hyaluronic acid. 

Consumers are also familiar with the latter due to their application in cosmetic surgery. Why do consumers trust these substances? For one thing, they are produced naturally in the body (specifically the hair or skin). For another, they have been known to consumers for decades and are therefore considered particularly safe. 

Safety is the top priority 

At the end of the day, when products enter the market, the end consumer can be sure that shampoos, face creams, sun lotions and lipsticks are safe to use. They are regulated and certified by the EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetics. It regulates which ingredients may be used in a cosmetic product and where usage restrictions apply regarding the areas of application and dosages of certain substances. Consumer safety is the top priority. For allergy sufferers, contact allergy sufferers and/or people with (very) sensitive skin, the INCI information about the products can prove extremely helpful. This information allows them to identify those substances to which they are sensitive and avoid products and related substances accordingly.