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Misinterpretations when it comes to sunscreen
If you follow our articles here on the sun page, you know how much we care about sunscreen. We want to raise people’s awareness about the topic. And we want to clarify the numerous misinterpretations that persist around UV filters and sunscreen products. To do this, it requires us to take a look back into the past – and into the future.
The importance of protecting yourself from harmful UV rays is now clear to virtually everyone. Nevertheless, myths and misinformation continue to ensure that sunscreens don't exactly have the best image. In general, chemical ingredients are viewed, discussed and evaluated critically. Sunscreens are subject to particular scrutiny. In this article, we collect the most persistent misunderstandings and try to shed some light on them.
1. Safety of UV filters and sunscreen products
The short (and most important) answer is: Yes, they are safe. Before UV filters can be brought to the market, they undergo very complex registration processes. For Europe, this is strictly regulated by the EU Cosmetics Regulation (Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009). UV filters are meticulously examined and evaluated by a scientific committee. If all the data to show the safety of the UV filter molecules are scientifically supported, approval is granted. For end users, this clearly means: Products that contain approved UV filters can be used without any worries or concerns.
The development of a new, safe and powerful UV filter requires a lot of time and resources – at least 10 years are needed to complete all the development steps from basic research to product development and approval process to industrial production. Only registered UV filters can be used in sunscreens. In addition, no other molecule that absorbs UV may be used as a UV filter in sunscreens.
One important point for consumers to keep in mind is that constant monitoring is practiced. If there is a suspicion of a health hazard for a registered filter or if new data are available, the product's safety is reassessed. UV filters in nanoform are subject to even more stringent testing than other filters.
By the way: The most recently registered products primarily include nanofilters, which means they have been checked according to the latest and strictest safety requirements.
Safety is a top priority
Dr. Myriam Sohn (Global Technical Center Sun Care) took some time for a short Q&A for us.
More information2. Are natural UV filters better than chemical UV filters?
Generally speaking, we don't talk about chemical and natural or physical filters because this classification is misleading. "There are ORGANIC filters, which are carbon based. Then there are INORGANIC filters – zinc oxide and titanium dioxide – minerals which are carbon free," explains Marcel Schnyder, Head of Global Technical Center Sun Care. So-called natural filters based on inorganic chemistry are not natural. The inorganic filters are also chemical filters. Why? They are chemically modified for use in personal care. They have to be cleaned using chemical processes and additionally coated in the case of TiO2 and some ZnO variants.
The fact is that with absorption, reflection and diffusion, there are three different mechanisms that protect against UV rays. The key factor remains absorption. It plays the main role with 90% of inorganic AND organic particulate filters. Some UV filters can also reflect part of the UV radiation (the mirror effect).
These are particulate UV filters. All insoluble UV filters – inorganic and organic – are particles (crystals made up of many molecules) and demonstrate this effect. This is a quantum physical phenomenon. All UV filters work according to physical principles. This means that there are no physical or non-physical filters.
On the topic of effectiveness: Organic UV filters are generally much more effective and can therefore be used in much smaller quantities. In addition, the soluble organic filters are invisible on the skin due to their transparency. The inorganic filters are less effective and offer poorer protection against UVA radiation.
However, we mustn’t forget an important point here: Not all organic UV filters provide good UVA protection performance, either. Each filter has to be considered on individual merit.
Their consistency may lead “white washing” to occur during use. Both types of filters are safe to use if they have been approved.
For more information, see: “Absorption is the key factor in UV protection” + “UV filter types”
3. SPF 30 isn't simply twice as good as SPF 15, right?
Why should I pay more for SPF 30 than for SPF 15, even though it only stops 3–4% more UV radiation from reaching my skin? To dispel this myth, let’s take a closer look at this difference. Let’s say an SPF 30 product can filter out around 96.7% of UV rays. And let’s say an SPF 15 product filters out approximately 93.3% of UV radiation. Looking at it this way, the difference is 3.4%. This does indeed seem to be a very small difference in efficacy.
But, and now comes the big and important BUT: This reasoning and way of looking at it is INCORRECT. When we calculate the sun protection factor, it’s not just about how much UV radiation is blocked, absorbed or filtered. Instead, we need to look at the amount of UV radiation that can reach and penetrate our skin to cause damage to it. When we look at it from this more relevant angle, we arrive at the following differences:
- Sunscreens with SPF 30 allow 3.3% of UV radiation to hit our skin.
- SPF 15 sunscreens allow 6.7% of UV radiation to hit our skin.
- As a result, SPF 30 allows half as many UV rays to reach our skin compared to SPF 15.
The difference of 3.4% is similar to that described above. However, the effectiveness of an SPF 30 product is almost double that of an SPF 15 product. So the performance of a higher SPF is not just slightly better, but much better. One more thing needs to be mentioned: The highest SPF on products in Europe is SPF 50+, which is equivalent to SPF 60 according to the European recommendation.
However, the use of a high SPF is recommended for another reason, too. Generally speaking, consumers use much less sunscreen than they need and are therefore protected less.
For more information, see:
“How do they test a sunscreen’s protection factor?”
4. Are sunscreens responsible for cancer?
This topic is very sensitive. Misinformation can create a great deal of fear. Consumers reject some everyday products if they contain “too many chemicals.” “Free of chemicals” has become the byword for natural, healthy products. However, cosmetic products in particular are subject to strict guidelines and processes. If you find a sunscreen in your local store, you can be sure that this product is also safe to use.
Looking at skin cancer statistics is not an especially good way to alleviate this fear. UV radiation is classified as carcinogenic. This is why efforts have been made to make people aware of the benefit of using sunscreen. Nevertheless, skin cancer rates are continuing to rise. Why? At this juncture, we need to take a look at the past. It was back in the 1990s in particular that the desire to travel took off. People spent more time in hot countries with a high sun intensity or went on holidays in winter – a time when our skin is unprepared and either white or very light.
Back then, sunscreen was not yet on everyone’s agenda. Even if people were aware, they only had access to products that, from today’s perspective, would be considered inadequate in terms of protection and performance. The average SPF was just 10–15. Together with the fact that skin cancer only develops after several years or decades, we can now look at the statistics to see the effects this lack of protection has had. The increase in the use of sunscreen today is not the reason for the continued rise in skin cancer cases among the population; the cause can be traced back to the decades prior to this.
In other words, we can look to the future with a little more optimism. An increase in people’s awareness of the risks posed by the sun and the improved use of sunscreen products is expected to reduce skin cancer in the future. The high quality of the products available today in terms of their photostability, UVA protection and SPF plays an equally important role.
What remains essential is that consumers must not only continue to use sunscreen, but generally adapt their behavior when outdoors and under the influence of UV radiation. They should also comply with sun protection rules, such as time spent in the sun, clothing and shade. Most importantly: Don't be afraid of the imagined health hazards of sunscreen – because there aren't any.
ABCDE – this rule can save lives
Skin damage and skin diseases caused by UV rays are widespread. The ABCDE rule can save lives.
More information5. Do UV filters damage coral reefs?
Although research into the environmental impact of UV filters and sunscreen products is still in its infancy, reports of damage to the ecosystem, coral reefs and our oceans are increasing. Above all, the question remains: Is it even possible to formulate sun protection that is sustainable and environmentally friendly?
We asked our experts in Grenzach: "Development continues all the time. With today's knowledge, the facts and results available, sun protection products can be developed and formulated with as little impact on the environment as possible," says Stéphanie Acker, Senior Technical Manager Sun Care, BASF, Grenzach, Germany.
Let’s dive into the underwater world and look at the corals. Yes, there are concerns and studies suggesting that UV filters have a negative impact on corals and coral reefs. However, based on the current state of science, it is not yet possible to clearly substantiate such statements or claims. To date, there is no standard or test procedure that can describe the actual impact on the viability of coral under the influence of UV filters.
Nevertheless, such studies have led to sunscreens containing certain UV filters being banned in some countries. These decisions are of great concern to human health. There is much to do in the coming years, especially with regard to UV filters and the environment. BASF is also involved in this process of developing standardized coral test methods (OECD/ISO). The EcoSun Pass allows further environmental impacts of UV filter combinations to be successfully assessed today.
More information:
EcoSun Pass - nature and humans in harmony
BASF Personal Care uses the EcoSun Pass to help sunscreen manufacturers bring formulations to market that are good for people AND the environment.
More informationSustainable sunscreen – a challenge
It remains the subject of heated discussion: sunscreen. In fact, sun protection in general is facing major challenges. The issue of environmental protection is one of them.
Environmental protection & sunscreen
Much needs to be researched and analyzed in more detail. What is the current state of play? A good reason to talk to our colleague Myriam in Grenzach.
More information